The week pre race in Chamonix started off with a very exciting Mini UTMB where my nephew, Michael, had a great run, only a year after a very bad leg break. Michael is a tough cookie and had a super week at UTMB following his crazy uncle.
A face of happiness and relief that I had conquered UTMB 2022, 171 Kilometres over 10,000 metres of ascending and descending in the Alps of France, Switzerland and Italy. This was one hell of a journey that I hope I can share with you all, to get a feel for what it is like out there, battling yourself and others, everyone with one goal, to cross that line in Chamonix!
I travelled to France on Monday with the race starting on Friday night. All my family came along, and some friends including my crew man Shaun Stewart. We would spend a lovely week in Chamonix; relaxing, eating, sightseeing and I even fit in a few little runs early in the week to keep the body loose. I was feeling relaxed and felt I had two weeks now of very good rest. Preparation was good and even though my mileage was very low since Lavaredo at the end of June, I had focused on sharpening, strengthening and making sure I was injury free at that start line. I was confident, even though I have never gone further than 147km, that I had this in me. Consistency of training over the last few years, confidence in my mindset and the support of my family and friends was all on my side. Now all I needed to do was hope luck was on my side as well. Lets be having you UTMB!
My running buddy Adam Groucott would join me on the line, and we decided to pace each other until Courmayeur at 80km. This would get us through the night and hopefully mean slowing down a bit. My plan was to stay ‘steady to slow’ for the night and hope to be able to run the last 80km in a decent state. I generally don’t plan much more than this, apart from having all my kit right etc, as I feel in ultra mountain running there are too many other things being thrown at you. Solving these things can be the make or break of any race. The preparation is key, and I felt that I had this nailed.
My amazing supporters!!
The start line was like nothing else on the planet in terms of mountain trail running. 2,300 people or thereabouts lined up, everyone nervous in their own way. Tens of thousands of people lined the streets of Chamonix as a light drizzle fell. Perfect running conditions. We waited an hour before the UTMB tune was played and the goosebumps raised. This was really happening. I was on the line of UTMB, a race that I never thought I would even attempt. All I could think of was doing myself justice, and doing my family and friends proud. I was one of several Irish runners in the field, sharing the excitement with runners from the remaining 104 countries. At 6pm the race started and we rolled through the noisy streets of Chamonix. Bells and cheers for the first few miles and then onto a forest trail. The run was busy, watching every step as runners of different paces bumped their way along the rolling trail to Les Houches at 9km.
The streets of Les Houches were busy and with everyone still fresh it was easy to soak up the atmosphere. I estimated that we had started around 600 places back and were now somewhere in the 400’s. Placing was not important at this stage. Managing the race was key. Fuelling from the off, drinking a lot and making sure to go steady on the climbs. The first, smaller climb to Col de Voza followed. Getting our first views back along the Chamonix valley as we climbed. Stunning views as the sun started to go down behind the mountains. The run from Les Houches to Saint Gervais, including that first climb, was uneventful; managing the pace, probably going a little too fast but manageable. Adam was by my side and we steadily picked off runners ahead, making it interesting. Arriving in Saint Gervais, with almost two and a half hours of running under the belt and 921 metres of climbing, was one of the most epic moments of my running life. The crowds were insane, literally pumped. I was feeling a little battered from the first big descent and tried to keep my emotions intact as we ran along the busy streets. Kids were chasing us, people jumping out to give high fives, and as we turned the last bend I spotted all the Irish flags of my supporters. I knew it was important to lap up the fun while it lasted, but also knew I needed to keep the adrenaline for later. Stay cool!!
We left Saint Gervais just before dark and made our way towards Les Contamines, where we would meet our crew for the first time. This section was more about forest trails, rolling hills and a gradual climb along the valley. At 31km in Les Contamines I felt okay, apart from chafing on my arms. Shaun took his t-shirt off and gave it to me as I had none in bag that would do the trick. In and out in a few minutes ,and feeling decent 3 hours and a half hours into the race. The first of four “and a bonus” marathons almost done! My take throughout was to focus on the next checkpoint. Sometimes only 5km ahead, sometimes 15, but focusing on these small goals would help tick off the kilometres and get me ever closer to my goal.
Leaving Les Contamines, to more great crowds and bands we made our way towards the light tunnel. Yes, you read it right, there was a HOKA light tunnel of about 200 metres with pumped up music and a field lit up to be seen from the sky. Nuts but actually very cool. Hoka definitely added a sense of adventure to the race, something a bit different. After running through the tunnel we arrived at a steep climb, the Gorge, where the locals were out, Tour de France style, on the path roaring us up the climb. It was intense to say the least! I managed to slow the pace and take a gel near the top. I was taking a gel every 45 minutes and sipping tailwind every few minutes. I hoped the liquid calories would be easier for the system to take with the altitude and big climbing ahead.
Between Les Contamines and the top of one of the biggest climbs of the race, 2500 metres at Refuge de la Croix de Bonhomme, the going was tough. This was the first taste of altitude and some were feeling it. Adam and I climbed steadily, gaining approximately one hundred places between these three aid stations; leaving us in approximately 250th place. The night had really closed in and the stars were out. The race was on and my gut was telling me it was going to be a long night. My big toe, sore from a recent stubbing, was very sore the first few hours, but a good stub on a rock around 5 hours in seemed to jolt it back into place!! My lower gut felt twisted and I was struggling to pass wind, while food was less inviting by about 11.30pm. This would turn out to be my toughest few hours. Battle on.
Between 45km and 50km we descended to Les Chapieux, a nice descent with some loose rock but generally good trail. I watched for shooting stars and saw three. Epic racing but my stomach and lower gut were sore every step of the descent. I was complaining out loud but staying positive on the inside! We were asked for a kit check here and all went smoothly. A couple of minutes to regroup in the aid station and back out into the night we went. An interesting trail meeting with some cows occurred at some point in this section. Very large cows with horns facing you on the trail in the pitch dark can be an interesting experience.
Two more big climbs awaited as the night went on. The second was up to Col de la Seigne, arriving there at 1.43am. These climbs were relentless but not overly steep. Adam and I got into a rhythm and led a few groups up the climbs, generally not being passed by many. We met a few Irish along the way. Not much was said during these hours as everyone battles their demons on a make or break section of the course. A descent to Lac Combal, where supposedly there was a beautiful lake to our right, and then one last climb to Arete du Mont Favre at approximately 2500 metres, before a narly descent on a narrow winding, root-worn trail down the valley into Courmayeur at approximately 80km. The night was nearly over and hope lay ahead!
One of my biggest low points, after I sat down in Courmayeur. Nausea and no appetite, but one foot on front of the other.. move as quickly as you can.
At Courmayeur there is just under 5,000 metres of climbing complete and the next 5km contains almost another 1,000. My thoughts were, push through this climb, the day is coming and the body will rebound. I could see the sun hitting the tops of the valley in Courmayeur and memories of CCC and TDS flooded back. These next few hours would be key to breaking the UTMB. I told Adam I was feeling low, as we walked out of Courmayeur drinking coke, and I told him to push on up the climb to Refuge Bertone. Adam was going well at this point. I took the climb steadily and started to recover a bit. My gut felt better and on summitting the climb the morning was well underway. I met Adam at the checkpoint and we started the descent and long trail section from here to Arnouvaz together. Adam started to slow a bit and I hoped all was okay. As it turned out he had a really tough race from here but finished. This was an incredible achievement for a guy that only started ultrarunning last year! My legs started to roll as my gut started clearing and I ran this trail section really well, passing several runners. Seeing Eoin Keith coming out of Arnouvaz aid station just before me gave me heart that I was in a good place in the race. I ran the following section out of the aid station, catching Eoin Keith at the bottom of the Grand Col Ferret. We climbed together. I had never met Eoin in person but this experience was superb. We chatted everything ultra racing and slowed the climb a bit to take in the spectacular scenery of the Col. We met three runners, sleeping along this section as the sun was warm enough now for a lie down! Summitting the Col at over 2,500 metres, I realised I was now over 100km into the race and I was on a bit of a high. Eoin told me to rock on and so I did, rolling down the long descent into La Fouly. I remember hurting on this section in the CCC, but today I was actually having fun. I was even holding back as I knew there was a long long way to go yet.
Grand Col Ferret with Eoin Keith
I didn’t hang around in La Fouly, grabbing my usual water and coke. Sparkling water was working a treat with my stomach issues, as was my now familiar bowl of salting broth, which had saved me throughout the night at each aid station. The section out of La Fouly was flat and mostly downstream along the river. Not easy to get the legs to run on the flat but I somehow managed, dropping and gaining places as I went. The long descent from La Fouly goes on and on before clipping through a village and down the road before hitting the climb up to Champex Lac. I dunked my hat into a fountain and the cooling effect was immense. This climb went on longer than I remembered but I was feeling pretty good, even though the last 3 hours had been very warm. I ducked and dived for shade on the trails and dipped my head in a few more streams along the way. I was drinking plenty and sweating a lot, meaning hydration was adequate. As I climbed into Champex Lac I met all my support. A quick hug and high five were needed here. “Sit down, eat, move, and don’t mess about,” I told myself, “this is race-time.”
Arrival Champex Lac
I walked out of Champex, having consumed a feast of two pieces of pasta (not great but I was taking plenty fluids)! Lisa, my sister joined me for a few minutes. My uncle Greg and my parents cheered me on as I walked through the town and along the lake, spotting a guy fishing along the way. No time for an angler check today!! A quick fountain splash and then get the legs going, run when you can run! Lisa cheered me all the way to the forest trail and off I went again.
The run out of Champex bordered the lake, then on to the road before joining a fire trail. This seemed to go on for miles before heading up the climb again. These last three big climbs were more familiar to me, but also they didn’t go as high. They start in the valley around 1,000 metres and climb to 2,000 metres. Just one Carrauntoohil I would tell myself. I was running the descents well and starting to gain places. I climbed to Plan de L’au and then to La Giete, playing music as I went to help my head! The steep descent into Trient was hard and technical. On arrival, with 142km under my belt, Shaun told me I was up to 128th position. Things were starting to go really well. Running out of Trient up along a river and climbing up to Les Tseppes went well. Taking approximately one hour I felt it was steady. I wasn’t climbing fast but I was descending well, making up time on the downs. Trient is one of my favourite spots, a lovely little village, of which I remember the climb out, from Shaun’s race last year. These little bits of information help along the way. The descent from Les Tseppes took about an hour but it is around 8km. Arriving in Vallorcine, running the flats quite well at this point. I was at 153km, further than I had ever ran and I could still run. This wasn’t so bad!!
Leaving Vallorcine, 153km
This was it, a long pull out along the river from Vallorcine, seemed to be about 5km and then the last big climb of Tete aux Vents. I started pushing up the climb and passing people as I went, knowing I was now around 110th position. Out of nowhere the wheels came off. I started dry retching and vomiting, and had to stop. I leaned over on my poles. As I did, a professional Polish runner passed me. She said slow down and you will recover. I slowed down behind her, and a German runner joined us. About eight runners climbed passed as we slogged up the boulder field of a climb. It was tough but as I slowed my stomach settled. I had a new plan. Save the body for a big finish.
I summitted Tete aux Vents climb at 8pm just before dark and put the headlight on. I could see Mont Blanc as the light faded and Chamonix’s lights glistening below. It’s now or never. Lets do this. I took off from Tete aux Vents on the crazy technical trail towards La Flegere. Three kilometres of nasty trail seemed endless, until finally ascending the ski field into La Flagere. I ran straight through the aid station and started the 7km descent to Chamonix. I could see the lights ahead of me as I started picking them off runners, one by one. I caught some runners, who had previously passed me on this same climb, and led them along the trail. We slowed as the trail got technical. But as it levelled out, I made my move. I wanted to make sure I was in ahead of this gang.
I rocketed down the hill, no idea where all the pain was gone. I could feel a stone in my shoe but a blister now was nothing. Keep her lit I told myself. Down the trail I went, and it felt like hours before I reached the lights of the town and the familiar face of Paddy O Leary asking me who I was! I ran by and took a left along the trail. Big mistake! I had needed to continue straight through the flags. 100 metres further, there was no flag. I turned on my heels and sprinted for the point I had gone wrong, hoping to get there before the advancing runners. Beating them to it by 30 seconds, I ran over the steps on the main road, and dropped the hammer for the final 2km run. Shaun joined me and said I was flying. I literally was!! I ran into the busy streets and began to soak it all up. Ciaran Croke handed me the Irish flag as I rounded the corner to face the line. My first 100miles, my first UTMB and first of the Irish. I would make this moment last forever. I jumped over the line and heard the roar of my crew and support as I did. UTMB you are mine. 28 hours 28 minutes and 17seconds. Not so bad for a first timer! 101st place out of over 2300 runners. It felt really good!
The finish!!!
It is hard to sum up this amazing event so soon afterwards. The main thing I want to say is to thank Shaun Stewart for being such a top class crewman and friend, to thank my family for always being there and enjoying the ups and downs along the way, and to thank Deirdre at home for her support, wise words on training and minding all the doggies while I made my way around Mont Blanc. I would also like to say a masive well done to every athlete that lined up to race this week. Whether you made it to the line or not, just lining up takes guts and everyone’s day will come if you put the work in and persevere. A la prochaine fois, Les Alpes, je vous ai vaincu !!
All results and stats can be seen here